Tuesday 6 December 2011

Garve to Oban via the Outer Hebrides.

Garve to Oban via Garve, Ullapool, Stornoway, Tarbert, Lochboisdale.

Train from York to Edinburgh, change for Inverness. Change again in Inverness for the Garve train. Garve is the nearest station to Ullapool, 32 miles, where I boarded the late afternoon ferry to Stornoway. The following day I began to bike down through Lewis, Harris, Benbecula, Berneray & South Uist eventually catching the ferry to Oban.

Day 1. Cycled from home to York Railway Station where I caught the train to Garve, via Edinburgh & Inverness. I had booked b&b in Garve. 12 miles cycled.

Day 2. Cycled to Ullapool, 32 miles, and caught the ferry to Stornoway. I had booked b&b in Newmarket a mile or so north of Stornoway. Total mileage cycled 35 miles.

Day 3. Cycled to Leverburgh at the south end of Harris. B&b booked just north of Leverburgh. 61 miles.

Day 4. A short ride to the pier for the ferry to Berneray. Cycled from Berneray through North Uist, Benbecula & South Uist where I had booked b&b at Lochboisdale. 54 miles.

Day 5. A short ride to the ferry terminal and a 5 hour crossing back to Oban. B&b booked in Oban.

Day 6. Another short ride to Oban Railway Station and caught the train back to York via Glasgow. Cycled from York Station back home. 12 miles.


Day 1.

At Edinburgh Waverley Station en route from York to Garve.
The b&b was little more than a 100 yards from Garve Railway Station.
Day 2.

  Garve b&b.


Loch Glascarnoch a few miles north west of Garve on the A835.


Looking back down the A835 from Loch Glascarnoch to the Altguish Inn.


Looking north west from Loch Glascarnoch to Beinn Enaiglair 2915' & Beinn Dearg 3547'


The Braemore Junction

The postcard view of Ullapool.



Ullapool seafront from the harbour.

The ferry arriving.


On board the Isle of Lewis at Ullapool Ferry Terminal. The CalMac Ticket Office is the large white building to the left with the red door.

Day 3.

My b&b at Newmarket near Stornoway.





Leaving Stornoway on the A839.

 


On the A859 with the Clisham hills and Harris in the distance.




Balallan Post Office - an opportunity to take on food & drink.







Clisham 2621' in the far distance. The highest point in the Outer Isles. Wonderful cycling.

A closer view of Clisham from near Ardvourlie on the A859. I took a rest break here because I knew what lay around the bend in the distance. I cycled at between 3 & 5 mph up the next hill to near Clett Ard at 1069'.

At the summit overlooking Loch SeaforthThe road levelled out at this point but on the descent to Tarbert in Harris, just near the old whaling station, I achieved my fastest speed to date at 47 mph.



Tarbert in Harris. In an earlier year I stayed b&b at the bungalow at the right of the picture.


First Fruits Tearoom - Tarbert. A good menu and good food on old singer sewing machines. I remember this tearoom opening one Easter but I cannot remember the year. I don't know if the lady who opened it is still working there but if she didn't have the exact change on payment she would round it up so you paid less. 



Looking westward at the Luskentyre turn off. If the weather is favourable and there is time to cycle the 4 or so miles to the beach I don't think you'll be disappointed. A short walk up the slopes of Ben Luskentyre, weather permitting, will allow you to see wonderful beaches and the Island of Taransay ie Castaway 2000, Ben Fogle and all that.




Still on the A859, in a layby, overlooking Luskentyre, in the distance, with Ben Luskentyre 1661' behind. 





Traigh Iar, Horgabost Beach, Harris.






The road is opposite Northton looking towards Chaipaval 1207' on Toe Head.



Leverburgh, or as the locals call it "Ob". I remember the inquisitive sheep approching me as I was shaping up to take the picture. I was nearing my b&b near here and I remember feeling very tired. I momentarily took to walking my bike for a few yards up a very mild incline just after here before having stern words with myself and then climbing back on. 



                                                                          Day 4. 

 recovered well from my previous day's exertions dry, rested & well fed. My b&b just to the north west of Leverburgh and about a mile or so from the Berneray Ferry.


                                          On board the Berneray Ferry leaving Leverburgh.


                                                        
                                                         Farewell to Harris heading south




 Bike on board the Berneray Ferry - I should have secured it first!


                        
                      Berneray, turn right for the village centre and supplies and left for North Uist.



                       
                                     The causeway ahead connecting Berneray to North Uist.



                                        Welcome to North Uist - more wonderful cycling.



         On the Newton Road, near the Trumisgarry Shore, going south before joining the A865.




This is the where the Newton Road joins the A865, I took the left turn here for Lochmaddy but the beach at Sollas is well worth a visit should time allow. There is also a very good store at Sollas for supplies.



                                                       The A865 entering Lochmaddy.



The well stocked shop at Lochmaddy. All that was needed to get me to Clachan 11 miles to the south west along the A867.



                                       The A867 to Clachan - this road has now been widened.



                                   All "mod cons" at the public telephone kiosk in Clachan.


An advert in the telephone kiosk.




Eaval 1139', North Uist, from the A865 south of Clachan.




I took the direct route across Benbecula on the A865 missing out Balivanich.



It is only 4 miles across Benbecula to South Uist. I had just enjoyed refreshments on Benbecula back across the causeway at the Creagorry Stores.





Day 5.

My b&b in Lochboisdale.

When I left the Creagorry Stores on Benbecula there was a hint of rain present and the clouds were building up to the south west. The rain gradually came on and I donned waterproofs near Bornish. The ride seemed quite long after this and it was fairly dreary until I reached my b&b in Loshboisdale. I had endured rain for about 9 miles but fortunately the winds were light.



My bike on board the Oban bound ferry. It was a short ride to the Lochboisdale Ferry Terminal from the b&b and the weather was bright and sunny.


                                     Lochboisdale Ferry Terminal from on board the ferry.






                                                      Leaving Lochboisdale, South Uist.



                                                                            Day 6.

                                                               Oban Railway Station.


Notes.

This was the first time I had cycled the Outer Isles but it was far from my first visit. I was to do another two cycle rides from Lochboisdale to Lochmaddy (and then on to Skye) and return. I have also cycled the North Uist circular. My four rides have been in June and April, twice each.

Verdict on all four cycle rides there - there are insufficient superlatives but be weather prepared.

Accommodation has always been bed & breakfast.











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